This information is from
home doctor
The least expensive models don't have any frills.
The compressor, in the bottom part of the refrigerator, the condensor, the evaporator, and the connecting refrigerant tubing are part of a closed system and normally do not need any attention. Most folks think that when their box is on the "fritz" it needs FreonŽ but generally this is not the problem. Most repairs require replacing simple, electrical controls and devices or simply cleaning out a stopped up drain.
This basic type of refrigerator is a manual defrost model with a static condensor mounted on the back. It's a good idea to clean the condensor now and then and keep the box far enough away from the wall to allow an inch or more of space between the condensor and the wall -- this part gets warm and needs to have ventilation to get rid of the heat it has absorbed from inside the box.
When this box has problems, it is usually due to a bad cold control (it's not called a thermostat), the starting relay that is mounted on the compressor, a bad wire or connection, or in some cases, a bad light switch which lets the bulb stay on when the door is closed.
This model has to be manually defrosted. As a serviceman, I've had calls to repair the evaporator (in the freezer compartment) because some idiot used a screwdriver or icepick to chip away at the ice instead of waiting for the ice to melt. If the repair is made immediately, this can be fixed. However, this problem is usually caused by brain-dead RENTERS, who also try to hide it, and if it is not fixed right away, the compressor will be damaged.
At
Appliancehelp.com
Refrigerator Repair Tips
- So you have a dead refrigerator? Check to make sure it is getting electrical power: Make sure your lifeless 110volt electrical refrigerator is plugged in to a LIVE outlet. Test the outlet with a lamp.
- So you have a leaky door? You should fix this as it makes your refrigerator very inefficient and costly to operate. Small cuts, slits, or breaks in refrigerator door gaskets can usually be filled or glued with white Silicone bathtub caulk. Single sections from corner to corner can be replaced without buying a whole new gasket if a local used appliance store will sell or give you a matching profile piece of a gasket salvaged from a scrapped refrigerator. The corners can be sealed/glued with silicone caulk also. This is easier to do if you remove the door(s) and lay them flat. Also true when replacing the entire door gasket(a last resort solution when unable to repair the old one). Be sure not to fully tighten the door liner/gasket mounting screws until the door is rehung and aligned untwisted against the refrigerator body sealing surfaces.
- Seems to be running all the time? Noisy? On refrigerators with coils underneath rather than on the back, particularly Coldspot, Whirlpool,GE, Hotpoint, and Amana, clean the coils twice a year and check that the fan underneath is blowing air out through the kickplate. Also on those brands ensure that the rear cardboard cover is securely attached. "Under-coil" models from other manufacturers may have a "jelly-roll" coil at the back underneath and need cleaning less often but may still clog up and overheat. This style typically doesn't require the cardboard cover on the rear.
- Hear a squealing puppy sound from a cold freezer compartment of a frost-free refrigerator, especially Whirlpool or Coldspot or Kenmore? That is a bad evaporator fan behind the back panel in the freezer. Don't try to lubricate it since it won't last long --just replace it. Call for details on how to do the job yourself.
Refrigerator maintenance tips at repairclinic.com
Manual-defrost refrigerator/freezers
Manual defrost refrigerator/freezers require very little maintenance.
When frost has accumulated on the inside walls of the freezer to a thickness of ˝ inch or so, remove the food from the refrigerator/freezer, turn off the thermostat or unplug the unit, and allow all of the frost to melt.
Once the frost has melted completely, turn the unit back on, wait for it to reach its operating temperature, and restock it with food.
Self-defrosting refrigerator/freezers
You don't need to manually defrost your self-defrosting refrigerator/freezer. Every 6 to 8 hours, it heats up its cooling coils slightly and melts any frost accumulation on the coils. The resulting water drains into a shallow pan at the bottom of the refrigerator/freezer.
There's no need to empty the pan. The water in it will evaporate. But it may begin to smell bad over time. You may be able to remove it for periodic cleaning by detaching the lower grill and sliding the pan out the front of the refrigerator/freezer.
Note… When mold grows in the drain pan, it is sometimes considered to be a health concern. If your drain pan is removable, and if you're sensitive to mold, consider cleaning the drain pan periodically.
Under your refrigerator/freezer is a set of coils and a cooling fan that you need to clean at least once a year. The coils may look like a grate or like a wide radiator. Unplug the refrigerator/freezer and use a Refrigerator Condenser Brush (available in the accessories section of our website), and your vacuum cleaner to clean any lint, pet hair, and so on from the coils.
If the gasket or interior of the refrigerator/freezer needs cleaning, try Refrigerator Cleaner to clean the surfaces. You can find this useful product in our accessories section.
For odors in the refrigerator/freezer try baking soda or, for tougher odors, try Fridge Aid deodorizer, also available in the accessories section of our website.
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DaleBrayden - 09 Aug 2002
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